Sea, sand and seclusion – just the remedy for the mind, body
and soul after a fast paced epic adventure through the Indian sub-continent.
Kerryn and I had not anticipated that our three-and-a-half months abroad would
eventually lead us to the isolated tropical haven, better known as the Maldives
but fate intended us to relax, recuperate and rest for ten magical days.
From the spectacular sapphire blue skies that swathed the
crest of Mount Everest all the way down to the mesmerising cocktail of serene turquoise
ocean, bleached white sands and luscious green palms of the tiny island of
Helengeli, in the North Male Atoll in the Maldives – our odyssey was reaching
deep into its final chapters.
It was only a couple of shorts skips from the mayhem and scorching
May summer heat of New Delhi that lead us to the Male International Airport,
unsurprisingly a whole lone-standing island in itself. Fittingly, we observed a
local grounds-keeper busy at work near the terminal entrance – dozing during
the humidity of the tropical afternoon within his wheelbarrow. If life was this
easy-going for the locals, we believed that omens boded well for our little “getaway”.
A sleek looking sea-plane greeted us on the other side of
the airport island and we were soon soaring over the play mat of tiny islands
dotting the most glorious array of shades of blue that filled their spaces. Our
home for the next ten days measured no more than 800 metres in length and 80
metres at its widest. Encircling the slither of milky sand and dense greenery
was a crust of coral reef. Only six narrow channels allowed access to boats and
snorkelers alike. The edge of the magnificent house-reef fell away into a
royal-blue nothingness but accommodated an enchanted amalgamation of subsea
flora and fauna. Fish encompassing every colour of the rainbow, coral that
better resembled bushes from an alien world, inquisitive sea turtles and even
the odd manta ray and white-tipped reef shark all called the house reef as
home. Bi-daily snorkelling, as we would soon find out, would become our only
form of exercise – the rest of the time would be spent doing a mixture of
nothing and very little.
I was extraordinarily pleased to discover that the island
was serviced by a reputable and efficient scuba-diving company that would
scratch an itch that I’ve had for quite a while. It hasn’t been since Greece in
the middle of last year that I’ve enjoyed sipping on compressed air while
exploring a wetter type of wilderness. I was not to be disappointed – toasty 29
degree water was to be found down at 30
metres, which meant that the aquatic life remained just as vibrant and numerous
as at the surface. White-tipped sharks lurked in the deep blue as the group of
scuba-divers descended down an underwater cliff-face. A stiff current reduced
the work load as we ducked in-and-out of the vast caverns found etched into the
living wall of vivacious coral and its inhabitants. Huge black snapper and many
lobsters made these caves their homes and were not afraid to get up close to observe
the bubble-blowing intruders. As we ascended at the completion of the dive, I
noticed a majestic sea turtle feeding off top reef, blissfully unaware that it
was under keen observation.
Much of our time was spent relaxing under a palm tree in our
deck chairs enjoying a fresh ocean breeze and sipping on delicious fruit
cocktails. This was interspersed with frequent snorkelling escapades as Kerryn
and I reconnoitred every inch of the house-reef. To Kerryn’s displeasure, the
house-reef was home to plenty of Trigger Fish. These are no ordinary tropical
fish mind you, they are prone to defending their nests with a vicious tenacity
usually only seen by larger sea creatures. The islands notice boards made
mention that should such a situation arise then the best solution is to show
the Trigger Fish your fins. On more than one occasion, I found myself choking
on the wake of Kerryn’s escape. So fast was her straight-line overarm that I
would suggest Olympic freestyle might in fact be her true calling in life.
Rather ironically, Kerryn remained exceptionally calm when a small white-tipped
reef shark came within a few metres of her during our snorkelling safari.
Such was the level of privacy that our fellow holiday makers
were barely seen during the day. Each beach-side bungalow had its very own
private beach area that provided a level of serenity that Kerryn and I had
longed for during our time in India. At dinner time, all the couples
congregated in the large open, sand-floored, buffet restaurant. On one occasion
a barbecue dinner was presented on an open section of beach under the brightly speckled-roof
of the stars. It quickly became clear just why the Maldives is regarded as the
honeymoon capital of the world.
Other than the largely Swiss and German patronage, thousands
upon thousands of crazy crabs, rock crabs and sand crabs adorned all corners of
the island during the dying hours of the day. A walk along the beach in the evening
became a hazardous exercise as the minefield of scattering crustaceans fled at
the golden glow of torch beam.
We left our tranquil, turquoise water world with relaxed
bodies, rejuvenated minds, soothed souls and sand between our toes. The ten
blissful days came and went like the footprints we left in the sand only to be
swallowed up by the incoming tide. We have only a few more sweat-laden days to
endure in the Indian capital before we can share all our new experiences with
our beloved friends and family back home.
Namaste.
--Sandeep Fogarty
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