Enigmatic People

May 6, 2012

Tranquil Tibet Fading Fast

Expectations of a tranquil Tibet were dissipated the moment we stepped off the plane in the capital of Lhasa, due to the cosmopolitan landscape and Chinese movement which has now shaped this impressionable and vulnerable country.

In the far distance of the flat plains of the city, snow encrusted hills tower like mother nature’s skyscrapers, though up close the Chinese rule, which began in the late '50s is clearly evident and has engulfed most aspects of the Tibetan way of life. Large flat screen televisions feature at almost every corner and designer stores have become the norm with more than 90 per cent of the tourist trade coming from China.

Deep and I did quite a bit of research on the Chinese rule before we arrived, though the level of policing and control they have over the Tibetans could not have been predicted. The bright red Chinese flag dominates the city skyline, as if they have marked their territory, taking all ownership from the local people. On arrival Chinese customs officers removed any books which made any historical reference to the takeover of Tibet, some people even had their Tibetan guide books confiscated.

Can I just say that Tibet is a truly awe inspiring place and the local people are the kindest we have encountered on this four month trip, though I do see it important to mention the obvious silencing of the local people and the deprivation of free speech. Our Tibetan guide was quite fearful when we spoke of the impact the Chinese had had over the years and even refused to speak of the 14^th Dalai Lama who was exiled to northern India, escaping through the hills of the Himalayas.

Though on a positive note, many of the world renowned monasteries, including Lhasa’s Potala Palace have been left intact, well aside from the Chinese flag flying overhead. During our stay in Lhasa we had the opportunity to venture into the villages, which resembled an accurate portrayal of the traditional Tibetan way of life, as colourful prayer flags laced the hill side. The people were warm and welcoming, and unlike other countries we have visited no one came up to us asking for money. Unfortunately after viewing a handful of these monasteries throughout our 10 day trip through Tibet, it became apparent that the presence of monks was close to non-existent.

It wasn’t until we mentioned this to our travel companions (a lovely Danish couple) that we were informed that monks were on occasion burning themselves in the streets, due to the despondency of losing their country. Despite the turmoil and grief thousands of Tibetans have been faced with, they still manage to smile, deep down keeping that fire alive in hopes of reclaiming what is rightfully theirs.

Aside from the Chinese impact on Tibet, this country offers a landscape unlike any other, with Himalayas looming above, while small villages and flat plains lie in its shadows. Once we stepped out of Lhasa, we were pleasantly surprised by the slightly untouched Tibetan way of life, unfortunately the Chinese presence is always there. Life moves a lot slower outside of the capital and local children squealed with excitement when our tour vehicle rolled into town. Their tiny faces beamed with joy and delight, unaware of what was happening around them. Though it is the Tibetan’s innocence which is truly moving, they welcome all and ask for nothing in return. I hope that their strong faith in Buddhism and their good karma will continue to keep their spirits alive.

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1^st March, 2012

Goan Crazy

Midway down the west coast of India, hugging the coast line is the state of Goa. A holiday destination which lures thousands of tourists, captivated by its alternative lifestyle, hill top night clubs, colourful bazaars and long stretching beaches.

Originally a state settled by the Portuguese, Goa was known for its brothels, bars and booze. Now-a-days, Goa is a beachside gem, with friendly locals playing up to past perceptions of this place, openly offering westerns drugs at every corner.

To be honest it isn’t the locals which make this place a stand out travel destination, it’s the world-wide travellers who have settled here and called Goa home. These alternative characters blend into the surroundings, as if this place was made for them to grow old, raise their families and spend the rest of their days lying in the warm summer sun.

Goa is a far cry from other places in India, as it isn’t a game of spot the foreigner but more a case of spot the local, as the tourist presence is in abundance.

Beachside restaurants and bars offer panoramic views of the coastline, as tourists and locals watch the golden rays of the setting sun melting behind the horizon. This is when Goa really comes to life. In the day time, the odd cow will stroll along the beach, dipping its hoofs in the warm waters. Though it’s when the sun sets that the people roll out from the shadows and embrace all that Goa has to offer.

You cannot visit Goa without experiencing the Saturday night Arpora Bazaar which features open air bars and trance night clubs as well as local arts and crafts. This particular bazaar is like falling down the hole in Alice in Wonderland and waking up at the Mad Hatter’s tea party. Colour decorates every speck of space, with sweet aromas of incense dancing in the warm summer breeze. The atmosphere is simply electrifying.

What amazed Deep and I the most about this bazaar was the amount of foreign store holders selling their arts, crafts and produce. Here we are in Goa, on the west coast of India and Swedish and German hippies are enticing you to buy their Goan inspired clothing.  If all the hippies in Byron Bay came together and were high on (red cordial) then you can picture what this bazaar was like.

But what we came away with was amazing, an ultimate experience like no other, not to mention some Indian made pillow cases, Indian tea as well as some jewellery.

Now I can’t finish our story in Goa without telling you about our experience with an old, passionate Indian man who stated that my very presence in India was ruining his country. Deep and I were riding on a scooter to a sunset cruise on the river when a man in his car stopped us to tell me I was a disgrace and an insult to everything he believed in. Can I just mention that I was fully clothed with a long skirt draping down to my toe nails. The man screamed in my face saying that I was ruining “his” India.

After a very heated argument I said to the man that it wasn’t in fact I who was ruining his India, but his racism. Thank you Goa for the ups, the downs and the whirlwind in between.