Off the beaten track

The hilltop town of Mcleod Ganj is one of the most picturesque and fascinating places we have seen during our travels through India, with its raging rivers deep in the valleys to the snow-capped Himalayas which tower from above.

McLeod Ganj is situated in the Himalayan foot hills north of the main city centre of Dharamsala. This town is quite unique as it offers both an Indian and Tibetan experience with hundreds of Tibetan refugees having fled from their country in the late ‘40s in an endeavour to escape Chinese persecution. Colourful Tibetan prayer flags are hung from the cliff tops, store fronts and rooftops providing blessings to the town and the people living there.

 

The air is crisp and fresh, with the smell of Tibetan momos now replacing the rich aromas of Indian spices. Despite the fact that we are still in India, you could easily be mistaken for being in Tibet, with shaven-headed monks walking the streets towards the Dalai Lama’s residency and the Indian presence now close to non-existent.

 

Deep and I spent close to a week exploring the hill tops, winding roads and alleyways of this town, as well as the surrounding villages. We spent an entire day uncovering the Buddhist philosophy by visiting Tibetan villages, monasteries and the Dalai Lama’s residence. Unfortunately we missed seeing him by only a few days. We also got the opportunity to explore the school where Deep went for a year when he was eight years old.

But none of these experiences compare to our adventure in the forest, a few kilometres out of a small village called Nadi. We decided on our last day in Mcleod Ganj to go for a walk to the river just below Deep’s old school. We began our journey just after lunch with our picnic bag and rug in hand. After a gruelling two-and-a-half hour trek through dense forest and a steep dirt track we made it to the river.

 

As the sun began to set we both came up with the bright idea that it would be a lot quicker to follow the river upstream than to walk back the way we came. At first it began as an exciting adventure, clambering over large boulders, making bridges across the raging river with rocks and tree branches. Though the further we went the more strenuous and dangerous the trek became. In some sections the river was moving too fast for us to cross so we had to trek up the side of the mountain on all fours.

It wasn’t until we could see the sun slipping from the sky that we started to realise we were running out of time in the race against the light. I tried to climb a large rock to get up the mountain side though I slipped and came crashing down into the water. When I look back now I can’t help but laugh at my stupidity, though at the time, falling into that freezing cold water was quite scary. Luckily Deep had a spare jumper in his bag which was quickly replaced by my soaking wet top. We decided to give up on following the river and head up the mountain side.

I’m not trying to be all Bear Grylls here, but there was no track to follow, nothing to cling on to, just a sheer cliff face and a decreasing amount of day light. Half way up the mountain we saw the lights of the hotel on the main road and we began to feel a lot more confident that we were almost there. However by this point we had completely run out of all day light and began the difficult task of blindly making our way to the top.

After hobbling on a sore knee and being cut from head to toe by tawny bushes, we finally made it to the main road. I have to say, I have never been so scared in my life and am extremely grateful to my amazing partner Deep who step-by-step helped me up the mountain, staying positive the entire way. I didn’t think I would have quite the adventure that Deep and I had that day, but the funny thing is we both said we wouldn’t take back the experience. Bring on Everest I say. (Just a little note to my parents, please don’t worry, next time we go on a trek, we will take an experienced guide with us).

By Kerryn Anker

Monkey Madness in Serene Shimla

At the foot of the Himalayas features the quaint township of Shimla, renowned as the summer holiday capital of the state of Himachal Pradesh.

Shimla is the largest and most well-known hill station in India as it was originally “discovered” by the British in the 19^th century, who used it as their summer holiday haven. The original presence of the British men and women is evident in the colonial style architecture of the buildings throughout town.

 

I had no expectations of what Shimla would be like, other than the fact that the temperature would drop considerably compared to our journey through Rajasthan. Our trip from Haridwar took 9 hours by car up a long windy road, leaving behind the plains for the mountain tops. We arrived at 1am in the morning and quickly got inside our accommodation, away from the evening chill. So when morning came, the view and beauty of the township, cascading down the hill side was a sight for sore eyes.

It has been an adjustment getting used to the stares and comments from the locals, though this was amplified in Shimla as less westerners come here. I knew that staring was common in this country but the lengths people go to, trying to see what Deep and I are up to is hilarious. We had one man earlier on in our trip, who stood right in front of our faces at a train station and despite us staring back, he didn’t budge.

Anyway back to the beautiful, unique township of Shimla. Once a small village, Shimla has grown into a trendy place, with upmarket brand named stores and restaurants. We were amazed at the structure of the town, with the main shopping square continuing all the way down the hill side. You can literally spend hours walking down the winding road with no end to the array of colourful stores.

One of the popular things to do in Shimla is to venture up to Jakhu Temple, also referred to as “Monkey Temple”. An incredibly large statue of the monkey god Hanuman, towers above the town and is surrounded by real life monkeys, ironic, I know. Now previously on this trip, Deep and I have had wonderful encounters with playful, friendly monkeys, though these monkeys were clearly not taught to play nice. I just have to say that before I came on this trip I told Deep I had a slight fear of monkeys, fearing that they will jump on me and claw my eyes out (a slight exaggeration, but you understand the point I’m making). As we arrived at the temple a monkey jumped onto my back and stole my sunglasses off my face before scurrying up a tree. He then spent the next 10 minutes trying to work out what they were and ended up just chewing on them.

 

I was able to get the glasses back but had to give money to a local man who retrieved them. It was as I was handing over the money that I realised I’d been scammed, by the man and the monkey.

Aside from our monkey encounters, Shimla has been a wonderful travel destination, offering panoramic views of the hillside and satisfied my shopping addiction for now.

By Kerryn Anker

Holy Haridwar

The Holy city of Haridwar, known as the “Gates to God’s Kingdom” is a sacred destination for thousands of Hindus who take the pilgrimage from all across India to see where the mountains meet the Ganges.

This is truly a magical city, situated on the banks of the river Ganges, nestled in the valleys of the rolling Shivalik Hills.

One of India’s seven sacred cities, Haridwar is such a popular place for Hindus and western tourists alike as it marks the spot where the raging Ganges leave the mountains and enter the plains. By day people bathe in the dedicated ghats and worship the holy power of the river, by night the evening rituals take place around the Har-Ki-Pairi temple.

 

 

When the sun sets this religious ceremony of Ganga Aarti is undertaken by thousands of Hindus. This auspicious practice, dedicated to the life bestowing goddess Ganga, involves the circulating of an 'Aarti plate' or 'Aarti lamp' as well as flower offerings sent down the river. This was a very unique experience for Deep and I, watching priests perform blessings to families and children, while the Ganges lit up with thousands of candles. We were both blessed by a priest and sent our own flower offering down the river, wishing for health and happiness for our family and friends.

 

Whether you believe in the river’s healing powers, surprisingly my severe stomach bug ceased the very next day after my river cleanse, though maybe it had something to do with the doctor’s medication as well.

Haridwar was a truly inspiring experience on our journey through northern India, from the river channels teeming with activity, to the glow of the candle lit Ganges by night, this has been a spiritual awaking for both Deep and I.

By Kerryn Anker

Joyful Jaisalmer aside from the man eating bugs.

The golden city of Jaisalmer, situated in the Thar Desert is an oasis in the middle of rolling sand dunes. A sandstone fort cast shadows over the bustling town below, as well as offering sensational views of this magnificent city, nestled in the western corner of the state of Rajasthan. 

The entire city of Jaisalmer is made out of decoratively designed sandstone buildings and homes, providing a cool relief for residents when temperatures reach into the high 50s during the stifling heat of summer.

This is where all of India’s stereotypes come to life, where men wearing bright coloured turbans walk the pavement trying to sell their goods, while a rainbow of saris pass us in the street, as women do their daily fruit and vegetable shopping. The sun beats down and lashes its rays on our bodies, though surprisingly as soon as we step out of the sunlight, we are met by a cool breeze.

Deep and I were very lucky as we booked a hotel which was situated in the heart of the fort. It offered panoramic views of the town allowing us to peak into the lives of locals below. We were even lucky enough to be invited to the hotel owner’s niece’s wedding. It was the traditional Indian experience Deep and I had been longing for the entire trip and now we could experience firsthand one of the most sacred ceremonies in India, the wedding ceremony.

Deep and I were taken to a series of local stores in town trying on and bargaining for a beautiful sari for myself and a traditional men’s outfit (a kurta) and turban for Deep. With our wedding attire bought and the excitement building, we were told that the ceremony would not kick off until 10.30pm, while I was to visit the women’s quarters to have my sari fitted correctly by 9pm.

As the clock struck 10.30pm, a single firework lit up the sky, signifying that the celebrations had begun. The groom, who rode on a decorated white horse was led through the streets of town as men danced to loud music behind him. An hour later, the groom arrived at the bride’s family home though he stayed on his horse for 45 minutes longer. The men and male children of town continued to dance merrily into the night to the beat of four loud drums. The funny thing about the entire experience was that Deep and I were more dressed up than the bride and groom. The looks we were getting from the wedding guests were hilarious.

 After our wedding experience, Deep and I headed into the heart of the Thar Desert, outside of the town centre for an overnight camel experience. We envisioned a night under a sea of stars, as a camp fire crackled in the distance. It was a beautiful experience and I am very grateful to be able to say that I spent a night in the Indian desert; however the bugs, snakes and ticks kept my eyes wide open with fear all night. So let’s start with the man eating bugs (slight exaggeration but really not too far from the truth). These black “dung beetles” would literally chase you up the sand dunes, somehow curious of our presence in desert. Then there was the snake in my blanket and the mass amount of ticks crawling around the dunes. I know I sound like a princess, but if that’s the case then I’m happy to take that title as those desert creatures were bloody scary.

 

After our encounters with the desert creatures, I managed to get sick from the dinner we were served and am still recovering a few days on. Aside from the experience in the desert, Jaisalmer was amazing, a truly beautiful golden city which lived up to every expectation. 

One thing I would like to mention in this post is how welcoming and kind the people of Jaisalmer were. We were welcomed into stranger’s homes, some opening up to us with their tales of pain and heartache, of loss and love. We definitely made friends in Jaislamer and look forward to our return one day.

Pink Palaces and Mischievous Monkeys

As the days have slipped into weeks and now a month travelling around India, Jaipur was our next stop on the adventure trail. Known as the “Pink City,” due to the rich colour blanketing the city walls and streets, Jaipur appeared to be a dust bowl of activity, with clouds of thick dirt and dust causing a permanent haze over everyday life here.

Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, started out as just a stop-over point to Agra, though this city became so much more to Deep and I and surprisingly unveiled itself at the very last moment, becoming one of our favourite Indian cities so far.

 

Jaipur has become a hub for overseas tourists over the years, with foreigners keen to fulfil the third corner of India’s “Golden Triangle” as well as explore the exquisite array of bazaars, said to be the best in all of Asia. The architecture of this city and the craftsmanship in the famous Amber Fort can be marvelled at for hours.

The centre of Jaipur city is enclosed by pink walls and gates, and features the grand 300 year old City Palace, the Hawa Mahal (known as the Palace of Winds, which was built to allow the women of the palace to watch street processions whilst being screened from the general society) and Janter Mantar (an ancient astronomical centre). Finally the Amber Fort, perched high on the hills in the outskirts of town, allows tourists and locals an insight into times gone by, as we are encouraged to explore the labyrinth of passage ways, dining halls and secret tunnels.

All these attractions feature on the tourist trail and in every guide book. But what Deep and I didn’t expect was to be embraced by this city in our final hours, a moment later and we would have missed the real essence that makes this city a stand out travel destination.

To keep a long story short, Deep and I were to leave Jaipur by train to Agra, only to find out there were no trains running that day. So back we went to the City Palace to see what hidden treasures Jaipur had left to show us. It was there that we met a very friendly tuk-tuk driver, who we’ll call Sunil.

Tuk-tuk drivers are usually not to be trusted when giving recommendations on places to see and things to do as for them there is always a hidden agenda. Of course when we met this man, Deep and I were a bit sceptical towards his idea of showing us the “real Jaipur” but then we decided we were on holidays, and embracing the unknown was where the real fun normally begins.

Sunil firstly took us to a Shri Hanuman Temple, aka Monkey Temple, situated at the top of a cobblestone trail, surrounded by a blanket of clouds. As we walked up this steep climb baby monkeys ran in front of our feet, their eyes wide with wonder while their parents unfazed by all this human attention watched the sun set over this marvellous city. The locals believe in keeping the monkeys well fed in an endeavour of creating good karma for themselves and the Pink City. They achieve this through the help of a random tourist or two, who are encouraged to feed the monkeys bananas, chappati and fresh fruit from town.

At the top of the hill, inside the temple we were welcomed by a young woman who encouraged Deep and I to start the Holi festivities by covering our faces in colourful powders. Outside the temple walls the monkeys continued to play like young children, letting out high pitched squeals to get their parent’s attention. After our descent from the temple, we were taken to an elephant camp to watch these enormous creatures be decorated in an array of colours in honour of the upcoming Elephant Festival. 

 

 As the day turned to night we finished our tour at a local Hindu temple which was covered in gold leaf and mirrors. Three young children kneeled down in front of a statue of Shri Rama-Sita, saying a prayer to the Hindu deities, before quietly slipping out the back door.

Some things in life do happen for a reason and if we had hopped on a train to Agra that day, we never would have seen what lay under the thick cloud of dust, the real Jaipur which is very rarely seen by tourists.

Udaipur, City of Lakes.

There were so many expectations for our travels to Udaipur, the city of lakes nestled in the south of Rajasthan. Known as the romance capital of India, this beautiful city features 500 year-old palaces, one more prominently known as the Lake Palace, (aka where Katy Perry and Russel Brand were married, well that didn’t end well so let’s move on).

This is a place where you can spend hours walking around palace terraces, watching the lives of the locals pass by as the setting sun lights up the city with splashes of pink and gold. Deep and I spent one afternoon at the Monsoon Palace, a hilltop palatial residence which overlooks the entire “White City” of Udaipur. One kind gentleman took us on a grand tour with the finale, the settling sun over the mountain ranges. Unfortunately in India nothing is for free, so we did fork out a little for his services. As we left the palace, walking to our taxi, we both realised we had been left high and dry. The tour guide had our money and now apparently our taxi too.

We looked below at the long-winding, snake shaped road, and sighed at the thought of spending hours trying to get back down from the hilltop in the darkness. I contemplated spending the night in the dilapidated palace, though at that moment we saw head lights coming up the hill and we were saved from a night with the monkeys.

There is so much to be said about this beautiful, exquisite city but what most of my friends and family want to hear about is the root canal experience, performed in a local Indian hospital. Can I just firstly say it wasn’t a backyard dentist, performed by an old Indian man with pliers, though that would have made a great story.  No it was all performed in a very clean, local hospital. Let’s just say I was extremely scared and after four needles could still feel the procedure being done, so maybe the backyard plier story isn’t too far from the truth. After three days of going back an forth to the hospital, the root canal was finally done and I could then enjoy what Udaipur had to offer.

Unfortunately that wasn’t the end of our grief, with both Deep and I falling ill a few days later. I from the flu, Deep from the bus journey to Jaipur. One recommendation for travellers wanting to venture to India, “don’t take the sleeper bus.” Well unless you want to be tossed around and thrown literally half and metre in the air and back again. We survived the eight hour journey and live to tell the tale, though next time we will opt for the train or a plane.